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June |
Thursday the 1st What can we say, the first day of winter was a little cool; however, again clear sky and little breeze very comfortable indeed. My walk this morning was tough for I had to force myself to keep a decent pace up, back in camp and after breakfast I spent the next couple of hours making modifications and welding to firepots for others. The generated power supply is so bad out here that at times I was frustrated not being able to get a decent arc for welding. After this task we settled in just to read and relax until after lunch when we went into the Artesian Bore Pool and had our shower and then into IGA for a few groceries and off course the dreaded Tim Tams, would you believe that they overcharged again. The woman on the till when Liz went back stated "not the biscuits again" so it was we received our Tim Tams for free and a refund of $2.98, I figure after it happened a second time could it happen a third time? I doubt it. We looked for hairdresser for Liz and found there is only one in the town so she booked for next Monday, for we intend to get back on the road on Tuesday, we have nearly Opal ed ourselves out! Back to camp and again we were visited by the magpies that are nearly sitting on our feet they have become real tame, of course it has nothing to do with being fed bread-Ha! Ha! Happy Hour today Liz had a soft drink and I had a cup of coffee just for change, our new found friends could not believe that this was the case, we have planned for an easy tea tonight just a noodle and dim sim soup cooked on our camp fire. Prior to tea we strolled up to the 1st Shaft Lookout (which is only a 150 metres away from our camp) to capture the sunset, we have noted previous sunsets have been really great and so we decided to photograph the event. Whilst there we had another look at the shack that had been built out of beer cans with clear glass bottles for windows, the cans were the old steel type with aluminium tops; needless to say they are starting to rust and the shack now abandoned, unfortunately people have kicked some walls over since the roof has collapsed. No doubt we will see the milky way again tonight in all its glory, really great, I have become engrossed with a Clive Cussler novel and I am sure that I will be off to bed early to read after an easy day. |
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| Sunset at 1st Shaft Lookout | Sun finally disappearing | Beer Can House in disrepair |
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Friday the 2nd |
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| Sunrise this morning | Black Queen Museum | Dining Room note bottle window & Cyprus Pine bearers |
We drove to the Black
Queen Museum, who advertise the museum as containing Stone Miners Cottages,
beautiful feature walls,antique lamps and other curiosities. Well we have
to say when we pulled up and went through the gate we become aware that
we were entering something different, and for a reasonable charge we were
given an hour long commentary on the establishment and additions over
the many years by the original owners to the complex. Every thing is recycled material and the use of bottles to create feature walls in all the rooms and light were a work of art as the photo's would suggest, the original buildings were local rock, bottles, Cyprus Pine and recycled products including seats from early model cars for lounge suites etc. A truly magnificent set of buildings and furniture which included outside settings plus antique lamps all for sale at quite high prices and lo and belo the way out is by the souvenir shop. We both believe the entrance fee was well worth it and the original owner has done a wonderful job in putting it all together, like all those structures on the mining leases it is doubtful if these buildings would pass council building codes. |
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| Lounge Room | Kitchen Area | Pottery Room |
We moved onto the
Ridge Castle and though not able to gain access into this private residence,
it is made out of rock and bottles which creates light and heat during
the day, the outside is surrounded by a Cactus garden which seem to be
popular in this area, our next stop was at Amigo's Castle another stone
structure that was commenced in 1983 and even today it appears that it
is not completed with additions under constructions again on the mining
lease therefore not subject to council provisions. Unfortunately you can only inspect the interior if you are part of the local bus tours, it is amazing the length the owner has gone to establish this castle like residence. Then onto the Astronomers Monument, what can I say it is a crazy looking structure with what looks like a whole series of concrete buildings and concrete pipes reaching for the sky, built by "Polish Alex" who commenced the project also in 1983. Every surface has an eccentric message from the builder owner and of course with what appears to be with a mandatory Cactus Garden surrounding the structure. |
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| Ridge Castle | Amigo's Castle | Astronomers Monument |
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Being nearly touristed out we went back
into town and decided to go to cafe for lunch, we both had a hot potato
which was really nice washed down with a cappuccino, whilst there we
noticed the sky becoming black and watched as the outside umbrella's
were demolished by the squall that hit, complete with horizontal rain
and plenty of it; though it only lasted for about five minutes and was
gone. |
![]() Spot the Kangaroo photographed on my morning walk |
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Sunday
the 4th We must be moving towards the shortest day with the sun making its appearance later each day, normally I would be out of bed, have a quick cuppa and on the road for my walk by 6:30am. This morning I sampled the temperature and headed back to bed and didn't clear the doona until 7:40am and then headed off for my walk, this morning I only covered half the distance and returned to camp. After brekkie we then helped our hosts for the past two weeks, Jamie and Marlene to shift their furniture from their miners shack on the Opal fields into a unit in Lightning Ridge. Their son Brad refuses to to leave the shack and will commute out to the Opal mining operation daily, we packed up the back of Digger with the bedding and other goods then drove into the Markets at the information centre. The Markets once again had heaps of Potch and some colour Opal available for those that did not know how to tell the real thing from the inferior stone , luckily we have had some guidance from locals that seem to have adopted us for the period we have been here and then checked out heaps of other gear that was available. Then we unloaded the gear at the unit and then back to the tourist information centre for water then headed off back to camp. Back at camp for lunch and watched the football for the rest of the afternoon before going into the bowls club for the Market Raffle later in the afternoon where we had a few beers and played the Pokies. I did not stay long in the Poker Machine area for the body odour plus the stale cigarette smoke was giving me a head ache, something I do not usually suffer. Needless to say we did not win anything from the raffle though we enjoyed the atmosphere and the draws of about 50 prizes. of course the more tickets you buy supposedly gives you more chances of winning. Then we had a quick and easy tea and of course a few more drinks whilst we watched the television and then the usual off to bed and did some more reading before switching off the lights. |
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| Sunrise prior to walk | My friends Grey Kangaroos | Gardens at Information Centre |
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Monday the 4th |
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| NSW & Queensland Border | Hebal Hotel | Hebal Hotel entrance |
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Tuesday the
6th Time to move north the mornings are really getting chilly, the walk this morning was cut short so at to get on the road reasonably early. Bradley came over and bid us farewell and invited us to come again next year and stay and seek our fortune in Opal; Ha! Ha!. On the road and with Digger hooked up it was easy going with flat country and the road was reasonable, though it deteriorated the nearer we travelled to the Queensland border. At the border we stopped and took a photo and then moved on to Hebal some 63 kilometres ahead, we were wondering what the cattle and sheep were living on the ground is parched the only green is the stunted gum trees and mulga. Emu's were everywhere and we must have spotted over a hundred before pulled up for the day. On arriving at Hebal it was great to see an outback pub in all its splendour being possibly over a hundred years old with the mandatory Cactus garden alongside, they display the true Australian Outback especially when they state " Dunnies this way(outback of course), Lounge Bah and Main Bah" of course with suitable drawings depicting the instruction, the only other establishment was the general store across the road, it was the pub that sold fuel and diesel was $1.50 a litre. We moved on and the countryside consisted of stubble from last years crop of grain and it wasn't long before we were to come across irrigation for cotton production, the roadside was littered with cotton that had come of the road transport from the last season. We were to spot pretty large dams which no doubt are the holding basin's for water distribution to the many channels running through the paddocks. Next we pulled into Dirranbandi , who advertise themselves as the land of the croaking frogs. We took photo's of the Cattle road trains, it was obvious that the drivers were asleep and how they slept through the noise the cattle were making is beyond us. This has now signaled that we will run across road trains consisting of three trailers and 53metres in length, all on these narrow outback roads. Dirranbandi is a small town servicing the cropping and farming lands of course these properties are in the many thousands of hectares, very big. |
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| Road Trains Dirranbandi | Mural St George | Highway
over Weir at St George |
| On the road to St George and the land is
still very dry and again goodness what the cattle and sheep are living on
though the Emu's are prolific, we eventually arrived at St George and we
parked up and had a look around the town and went down to the weir and the
Murals that adorn the town. Of course we went into the el cheapo's though
we never made any purchases and then to the butchers and purchase chickens
for the freezer which were cheaper than the supermarket. We then had lunch
and checked out the cost of diesel which had dropped to $1.39.9. There are
many machinery outlets in the town and the tractors are quite weird in their
structure no doubt for cotton and other crops, certainly not your normal
tractors and their are five dealerships so that says something of the industry
in this area. We then made our way over the weir and onto the highway that would take us to Mitchell, the road was narrow and we were to meet two road trains and they kept to their half of the road and did not make us feel uneasy at all. We stopped about fifty kilometres out from St George back off the road at a floodway, where we are you can't be seen from the highway so we do not expect anyone else tonight. It is noticeable all ready that the sun is taking that extra half hour to drop below the horizon compared with Lightning Ridge, which is great more sunshine means warmer days or it should one would think. As there will be no television and I cant be bothered setting up the satellite dish nor light the fire, we will go off to bed and read and have an early night. Kilometres Travelled 288 |
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Single lane bitumen highway |
Continuing single lane
bitumen highway |
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Wednesday the 7th |
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| Welcome to Mitchell | Neil Turner Weir, Mitchell | Bottle
tree outside old pub at Mitchell |
Thursday
the 8th It was a bit warmer during the night which made me think when I climbed out bed at 7:45 that maybe rain was the order of the day, having slept in this morning I did not have my cuppa before I went walking. I had spotted a tip on the way in yesterday and given that my fuel tin for the chainsaw has sprung a leak I thought I would walk to the tip to see if I could retrieve a suitable container. It was a bit further than I anticipated and when I arrived there was bloke unloading his rubbish and even though said G'day he looked at me strangely for I was not driving a vehicle, so I told him "Just come to see if I could get anything for breakfast mate" which made him crack up and loosen up a bit; we had a good conversation about all and sundry. I found a suitable container and headed back to camp, on the way I had to pass a timber mill that appears to be milling Pine, they have a large pipe blowing all the sawdust across the road where it is burnt and even the off cuts I noted were transported to the fire. Back at camp and had brekkie and decided that it would be a good time to check batteries etc and do a bit of maintenance if needed, Liz went off to the laundromat then i started and found that the truck starter battery was corroding so out came the hot water to fix that problem. All in all the batteries are holding up well to date with no drama's with the fridge etc. Bob and Anne came over and had a cuppa with us after they dismantled their camp and indicated they were heading off towards Roma this morning, they indicated that next year they are coming over to Tassie and we invited them to come and visit us at the Bay. Last night there were about 20 Major Mitchell Galahs alight in the tree above our Motorhome, so I thought I would check the solar panels and roof for muck or dust. Not a pretty sight every one of those Galahs must have done there droppings on the solar panels and roof, it took over an hour to clean everything and then I moved our camp out into the open to avoid the problem happening again. We had a late lunch and Liz decided to bake a loaf of bread and then we went off to tour around the neighborhood of Mitchell, we went first out to the Neil Turner Weir which is nicely landscaped with barbecues etc. We have decided to come back tomorrow for a picnic lunch and enjoy the surroundings, we had a good walk about and spent some time speaking with people who were going to camp for the night there. Back into Mitchell and took photo's of the Bottle Trees and then spent the next hour cruising around the back streets of the town enjoying the beautiful old Queenslander Houses that are well looked after and then back to camp for the happy hour of course |
Friday the
9th Out again this morning walking out to the tip area again, on the way you walk past an industrial area and yesterday I noted many chiller pantechs so this morning I left at dawn to catch the action. Sure enough the utes loaded with Grey Kangaroo from the nights shoot were being weighed and stored in the chiller's. There three chiller stations that I could see and each ute contained ten rows by five kangaroos beheaded and feet taken hanging on the hooks. There is a chiller station across the road from our camp and you can hear the refrigeration going on and off during the night, back in camp and the usual shower and repairs to one of the cupboards. |
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| Nights kill at Chiller | Loaded with Grey Kangaroo | Loading
another chiller with Kangaroo |
Then
up to the library to upload this section of the diary and isn't it wonderful
due to using my client server there was no charge and their was no problem
sending off multi e-mail. Back to camp and then picked up our picnic lunch and off to fire Fisherman's camp and took in the views, though a camper had a line in water there didn't seem to be much action. We then went back to the Neil Turner Weir and enjoyed our picnic lunch in excellent conditions and with plenty of shade on a warm day, whilst eating we were visited by magpies, bower birds who sat nearly on my hand seeking food and a Kookaburra who was to slow to get the food due to the speed of the other birds. |
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| Fisherman's Camp | Kookaburra joining us for lunch | Courthouse
Hotel |
We then
went back to camp and prepared for our move tomorrow, then off the the
Courthouse Hotel where they say "Get charged at the Courthouse Hotel"
and what a wonderful time we had over about two hours in such enjoyable
outback pug conditions. As usual the hats and other paraphernalia expresses
the outback attitude and the casual way off life; it was a most enjoyable
time and so we went back for our usual happy hour. There are now six Tasmanian caravans in the grounds and a couple came over for our happy hour and it was enjoyable spending the time talking about home and the experiences to date, a couple had come on the Sydney Ferry and were a little saddened that they had to go home through Melbourne. We are packed up and will leave early in the morning bound for Charleville. |
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| Water, Water everywhere | More water over road | Camped
up on side road due to weather |
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Saturday the 10th |
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| Water receding from road | Welcome to Augathella | Main
street Tambo |
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Sunday the
11th Awoke during the early morning peaked outside and discovered a full moon and a star filled night, this was not the case at 6:30am when I went for my walk it was a cold south easter with very heavy cloud threatening rain. Though the ground had dried very fast around us we thought better of going onto Walkers Creek for a few days, that decision made and we returned to Charleville topped up with diesel at $1.43.9 per litre and hit the road bound for Tambo. The going was easy with slight tail wind and though a cold 11 degrees it did not rain, the countryside was flat and you could see the new growth appearing in the paddocks already. We were to spot plenty of Kangaroo and cattle though mainly Brahma with a few Angus, it wasn't long before we were crossing the Cooper Basin one of the head waters for Lake Eyre, though all bitumen highway it was very rough in places. We pulled in off the highway to visit Augathella who promote themselves as the meat Ant country, to took several photos of the public toilets which boast rather good Murals. It was extremely cold so took a photo of the old pub and bought the Sunday paper and then headed out to the highway with the heater turned full up. It may have been getting brighter in sky though it was still heavy cloud and cold, the countryside was still flat and the wind at our rear made for easy going on the few hills that we encountered. We arrived in Tambo at lunch time and went into the rest area by the lake that we stayed overnight and showered some years ago, though a good rest area the lake now is non existent through lack of rain in the area in past years, the shower has been vandalised with the shower rose and tap handles removed. You are no longer permitted to camp overnight and it may be just a coincidence that an extra caravan park has been established in the town. Tambo is renowned for their woolly teddy bears and other craft items, the town itself is small servicing the locals and the passing trade on the highway. |
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| Sunset by the roadside stopover | Fry pan on the fire cooking meal | Our
campfire before retiring for the night |
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We moved on to a rest area about 25
kilometres north of the town and the first thing after setting up was
to light a fire, |
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| Transferring Bio-diesel to truck | Moon setting at 6:45am next morn | Highway
to Blackall at 8:30am |
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Monday the
12th We had three road trains come in during night and I didn't hear one of them even though we went to bed early last night, out for my walk this morning and not the moon was still descending at the same time the sun was rising, something we have not experienced for awhile. On the road and the wind was on our tail which helped us climb the many small hills on the way to Blackall, we were to pass many pastoral companies land holding for we were now in Merino sheep country with just a sprinkling of rain. It didn't take long to arrive at Blackall who advertise the town as "There is more than stuff all in Blackall" being a public holiday there was very little open other that the tourist information centre, the day is sunny though very cold with the coldest southerly wind I think that we have both experienced. As we can camp at the show grounds for $5 a night for showers, toilets and power we have elected to stay for two nights and then move on. It has nothing to do with the Collingwood vs Melbourne football match today has it? At the moment Liz has walked to the town centre to see if she can buy a newspaper and the rest of the day will virtually relax and do absolutely nothing. Well not quite anything, Liz walked downtown to purchase the paper and it was time to wash all the road grime of poor old "Digger" who has really copped it being towed behind the Motorhome, tomorrow will be the first time the Motorhome has been washed on the trip to date. Bore water is not the best to wash with for it dries off leaving white calcium dots on the paint work if you do not wipe down after the wash, we were only caught out once and that was in 1998. The cold southerly still persists and the temperature in the Motorhome at the moment is 17 degrees so we are going to pull out the electric heater for the second time on this journey, shorts? not likely mate! Kilometers travelled 87 |
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| Replica Jack Howe Hotel | Main street Blackall at 7am | Bottle
trees near Barcoo River |
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Tuesday the 13th On my walk this morning I decided to walk the main street of Blackall from one end to the other, even at 7am the town was waking up with the shop keepers out hosing down the footpaths in front of their establishment, it is obvious that the town takes pride in itself for the the whole area is very clean and tidy. Of course they also take pride in the fact the town is the home of Jack Howe, even stating that we are in Jack Howe country. They indicate that Jack Howe was a gun shearer with shearing blades who established a record at Alice Downs in 1892 shearing 321sheep in 7 hours and 40 minutes. He also in the same year established a record in the first year of mechanical shearing at Barcaldine Station of 237 in 8 hours. He later became a publican at the Universal Hotel, the original hotel is long gone though the daughter of Howe's son along with her husband built a replica of the original hotel. It has a bronze statue of Howe complete with sheep in its forecourt, the establishment is not a hotel it is a Nursery complete with memorabilia of the first hotel complete with photo's of Howe in action, they also wrote a book on Howe entitled "Jack Howe-The man and the Legend" |
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| Blackall Wools Scour | Steam driven Machinery | Black
Stump |
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Liz went off to the laundromat
and I decided to wash the Motorhome, this is an exercise and a half for
using bore water leaves a calcium residue on the paint work; the need
to use a chamois to wipe down is a necessity to avoid this. Needless to
say this took some time and when Liz arrived back out went the clothes
to dry, they didn't take long given the southerly breeze, even with this
breeze the temperature had climbed to 24 degrees the warmest we have had
for days. We had lunch and went out to the Blackall Wool Scour that has now been turned into a working museum, the wool scour has a twenty stand shearing shed and everything is driven by steam. To obtain the steam today they have a modern diesel powered boiler alongside the boilers of old. It was an excellent tour given that we both admission on a seniors card and our guide was very informative detailing the operation from the well sunk in 1908 into the Artesian Bore and of course the water being heated suited the wool scour down to a tee, the whole operation closed down in 1978. The town was dying for the shearer's and their families and a lot of farmhands were leaving the district so a local group of people embarked on a project to revitalise the the town base on tourism. They were successful in gaining a huge amount of funding from both Federal and State governments to restore the building and machinery to what it is today. Where the lanolin from the wool stained the timber the white ants did not infest unfortunately a lot of the roof and other bearers had to be replaced. Given that a lot of the old employees were still in the district it made it easy for restoration of the steam operated scourer and other machinery. We really enjoyed the tour it was a 90 minute tour complete with video at the start and finish that made it all worthwhile, after the main tour we then spent more time looking at the old shearer's quarters and cookhouse etc. We then moved back to town to look at the black stump wherein it is stated that this stump was the site of the original Astro Station used by surveyors to determine the location of towns across the central west and those towns from Brisbane across the tablelands. We arrived back at camp just in time for the happy hour, after that we packed ready for a start in the morning,tonight again we will read and watch a bit of television. |
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| Droving cattle in the long paddock | Barcaldine | Dead
"Tree of Knowledge" |
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Wednesday
the 14th A cool though a fine day greeted me on my walk with very little wind and no clouds in the sky our journey north should be without incidence, back and showered with the bore water cold we had to let the water run for 15 minutes to at least be comfortable. We finished our packing and headed off deciding to top up the tanks with diesel before leaving Blackall, what a pleasant surprise to find that at the B.P. offered a four cent a litre discount to seniors and this reduced the cost to $1.40.9 what a pleasant finale to a pleasant stay in such a wonderful little outback town. On the road and the breeze was on our tail and in the first instance the land was flat with plenty of cattle and greenery for feed, further up the road and the land dried out and even the amount of road kill had diminished so we could assume that this part of the country contained no water. We were to come across two large herds of cattle complete with drovers and dogs moving them; one mob in the bush and the other in the long paddock, the mob in the long paddock numbering about 600 even took up the road. We took some time to drive through them for they did not want to move off the road and the downside was that that dropped their dung on the road and the Motorhome rear wheels than spat it out all over the front of poor old digger for I hadn't fitted the protective bra. It wasn't long before we were on the outskirts of Barcaldine and as we proceeded we noted the increase in caravans as we merged with the highway to Longreach. We went for a stroll along the main street and took photo's of the "Tree of Knowledge" which persons unknown have poisoned, of course it said that this is where the shearer's met during their general strike in the 1891 and later the formation of the Australian Labor Party, it would appear that buckets of poison have been tossed over the fence onto the tree, which is a gum tree, most of the surrounding flowers and plants have died as well. On the radio this morning they stated that tests have proven that a Glysomate poison had been used, they are attempting to bring the tree back by feeding it nutrients. They state that it will be three months before they can see if they have been successful, they believe that it is only a 30 percent chance of reviving the tree. We were to discover some fine very old outback country pubs and when you walked into them you felt like you were walking back into the 19th century. After a good stroll around we decided to go out to the Lloyd Jones Weir and camp up for a couple of days vowing to come back into Barcy to have a better look at what's on, when we arrived at the Weir it was absolutely full of caravans with no Motorhomes and only two pop top campavan's, they were packed in as tight as a caravan park. We decided against staying there and elected to drive back towards Barcaldine and set up a bush camp away from the crowds. We only had to go about four kilometres and here we are on the banks of the Alice River with not a soul in sight and though we can hear the traffic going past we cannot see them and we suspect them us. We collected wood and lit the fire and come tea time we cooked the potatoes, pumpkin and onion and chinese cabbage in alfoil on the hot coals of the fire, out came the cast iron pan and we cooked two humongous T-Bone steaks for tea; absolutely beauuuuutiful! We sat by the fire after tea and watched the clear sky and the stars get brighter then we went inside about 7:30 to watch the rugby match on the satellite television, its been a beaut day and warm for a change; we are now on the Tropic of Capricorn so the weather is going to be much warmer from here on in. As the state of origin rugby is on tonight and the television reception is not the best during the afternoon I set up the satellite dish and as usual perfect signal! it takes more time to set up the tri pod and and satellite box than it takes to track the Aurora Satellite for the signal. Kilometres travelled 134 |
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| Bushcamp by the Alice River | Evening meal being cooked | Evening
meal served up |
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Thursday the
15th This morning I just strolled along the river over from our bush camp and enjoyed the Ghost Gums and Coolabah trees, especially the reflections on the water, back at camp it would have been easy to make the decision to stay for a few more days; though we decided to push on to the warmer weather. We moved on to Barcaldine and parked up and strolled around the town looking at the various touristy things, though we didn't bother going into the Australian Workers Heritage Centre given that we had visited and spent considerable time there on the last occasion here. We were to witness the arrival and departure of the Spirit of the Outback train bound for Brisbane, we noted that it had sleeper carriages so one can assume that it must travel a great distance in the Outback. Purchased two cartons of 30 can Gulf Lager and then said our farewells to Barcaldine and headed for Aramac. |
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| Ghost Gums & Coolabah Trees | Cultural Theatre at Balcaldine | Spirit
of the Outback Train Barcy |
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On the road to Aramac with a stiff breeze
assisting our journey the temperature was steadily rising and at 11am
it was 24 degrees with no clouds to speak of, the countryside was flat
and the buffalo grass was prevalent and there was plenty of cattle and
sheep along the way, the road was narrow and eventually became a single
lane bitumen roadway. We did not come across much traffic so it was
easy going on this type of road. |
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| Colourful signage at Aramac | White Bull | Typical
Queenslander at Aramac |
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| Savannah on way to Muttaburra | Driving through cattle | Poor
Digger covered in Cow Dung |
Friday the
16th It appeared to be darker than usual when I climbed out of bed at 6am for my walk, on venturing outside the moon was still in the sky and there were plenty of clouds. The walk around the town was great and I stopped to have a yap with a couple of locals who were also out for a walk, it became obvious that they are proud of there town and they were able to confirm that a tornado came through the town last year causing considerable damage; also of late they have had heaps of rain. Back at camp and cleaned and packed away then on the road at 8am bound for Muttaburra which is only 88 kilometres down the road, so to speak. We were on single bitumen road again and we did not encounter a vehicle all the way which was great, we are now in Savannah county which is nice and green. We came across a herd of cattle being driven down the road and the drover told us that there were about 2 thousand head and they were droving them to Hughenden, I put the Motorhome in first gear and idled through them which tool about 5 minutes. Once again poor old Digger was subjected to cow dung being thrown over the front by the back wheels of the Motorhome even though it has mud flaps. It wasn't long before we arrived at Muttaburra and drove straight onto the two night free camp area and set up on power again for free what a bonus! and three good television channels as well to watch the football tonight. |
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| Welcome to Muttaburra | Muttaburrasaurus | Yellow
Belly Country on the Thompson River |
After lunch Liz went
for a walk around to the Post Office which also is the laundromat and
Tourist information centre, she noted the damage done to the Coolabah
trees by the dreaded Corella's and stopped off to have a look at the Muttaburrasaurus
which they claim is built to original specifications of the bones found
nearby the town. We then hopped in Digger and drove out to the Pump hole on the Thompson River some six kilometres from out camp, its a wonderful camp spot by the river under the Coolabah Trees, by the amount of sticks in the bank it may be a favourite spot for the locals to fish for Yellow Belly (Golden Perch) Black Bream and Jew Fish. There was only one Motorhome set up enjoying the coolness of the trees and breeze off the River, the temperature at the moment is 26 degrees with just a few clouds in the sky and a cooling breeze. We then came back into Muttaburra and then headed out to the broadwater a 3.5 stretch of water on the Thompson River, there were plenty of caravans set up by the river and it was an enjoyable drive and by the look of things this is where they may hold their fishing competitions. Muttaburra is advertised as the home of the Yellow Belly and for many kilometres along the banks of the river are drums for tourists to put their rubbish. Another forward thinking council hell bent on attracting visitors to their town they certainly make you feel welcome. Well, its happy hour once again, its strange that we seem to have one each day and some are happier than others. |
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The "Pumphole" |
Stocked up for a couple
of Happy Hours |
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Saturday the 17th Another wonderful warm morning and whilst out walking I spotted a mob of Kangaroos of about 12 who bounded away as I ventured near them. There were a few clouds though they dissipated later in the morning, on the way home I stopped off and had a look at the memorabilia in A.A. Cassimatis store and cottage. Of Greek origin Cassimatis arrived from Greece in 1913 and set up in Muttaburra, the store contains much history and is very interesting to see the old paraphernalia remaining it shows much of the history of the town. Back home for breakfast and then after showering and cleaning up we went out in old Digger to have a look at the Heritage Trail, we first went on the nature drive first and we were fortunate to see two Wedge Tail Eagles feeding on a dead Kangaroo. They both took off before we could get the camera out and going, we went further on to the old cemetery. |
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| Muttaburra Cemetery | Buried with his boots ready! | Union Camp Waterhole |
It certainly
told the story of the early settlers with the oldest grave dating back
to 1884, judging by the quality of the headstones money doesn't seem to
be a problem. One grave containing a bloke who died in 2004 was most unusual
with his old boots cements in, along with his watch and pocket knife.
He appeared to be the local character and Windmill/Bore repairer thus
the small windmill and just so he wont get lonely at night there are two
solar lights so he can find his boots to move about in. The tracks to
the various attractions had sections of sand and as we came around one
corner I had to dodge what I thought was road kill, all a sudden it came
to life and bounded away, it was a six foot big red kangaroo who just
happened to be laying on the sand sunning himself. Later we were to see
a mob of 20 big reds bounding away from us, no doubt they had been down
to the watering hole. |
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Union Camp |
Union Waterhole |
We then went onto
the Union Camp where approximately 400 striking shearer's were camped
in 1891, we moved around the site and there were a few old broken bottles
and fry pans and tins still left intact. Then onto Mitre 11 where we picked
up a few goodies that people of the town had discarded, then onto the
sandy plains and ended up at the Union Hole where the striking shearer's
carted water by horse and dray to their camp. We then went onto Dr Arratta Museum that actually is the old hospital and whilst going through the interior it must be very old for the beds were old and draws in one room consisted of four kerosene tins mounted on top of each other, a most interesting old hospital dedicated to one of the old doctors who was the local surgeon as well. Back to camp and had lunch and then decided to get a bit of culture of the area by going up to the pub to meet and have few beers with the locals before happy hour. |
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| Hospital Museum | Note four kerosene tins for drawer | Exchange Hotel Muttaburra |
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These country pubs are laid
back and immediately involve you in their discussions when entering the
bar, this pub was no different with a couple of locals indicating that
they had seen Digger driving around. Digger stands due to its size given
that most vehicles are four wheel drives or large sedans in the area,
there are certainly no small cars. We met the bloke that gives the tour of the Hospital Museum at the pub and he has indicated that he is prepared to give us a tour through tomorrow, we will take up this offer. Back to camp for our happy hour and we lit the fire in the barbecue area and out came the camp oven and in went the chicken and a little later the spuds, normal and sweet, pumpkin and carrots for baking, the meal was great you cannot beat a good camp oven meal especially when cooked along with a couple of stubbies. Sunday the 18th Well today is a lay day where much is not going to happen at all, out for my walk and other than a fine sunny morning with little cloud there wasn't much to record. Liz wanted to do some washing of sheets etc. so off to the laundromat in Digger at the Post Office a most unusual situation. Most of the day was just sitting around reading and watching television, after lunch we started to get ready for our continuation of our Journey tomorrow. At 2:30 we went up to the pub and had a few while watching the Hawthorn vs. Richmond football match in Launceston, we were surprised to see that almost 21,000 fans attended and it was good game to watch. Back to camp and we had a few more sips for happy hour with a few of those currently in the camp area and then it was time for our evening meal and then we settled back to watch television for a while and then off to bed to read, a boring day? not likely it was great for relaxing and doing nothing and that's exactly what we did. |
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| Clouds drawing water from land | Single lane gravel to Morella | Morella sign at Landsborough Highway |
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Monday the
19th A very cloudy morning with a beautiful sunrise, went for my walk and then back for breakfast and shower. Finalised our packing and we were on the road by 8am bound for Morella. The wind was at out tail and the first 20 kilometres were single lane bitumen and then it was onto gravel or should I say hard packed black dirt, the countryside was still green and the wind was on our tail. The problem with the road even though it was smooth it had a high centre and we were concerned that Digger may be to low to straddle it. So we pulled up and checked and found there was only about an inch clearance to the oil sump so we would need to bear that in mind, the countryside made up for an misgivings we may have had and it was a sight watching the clouds soaking up moisture from the ground. I was to busy to note a four wheel drive come onto to me though thankfully Liz spotted him in the rear view camera, he was up alongside Digger when I looked and I also noted another three behind him. I deliberately slowed him to about 5 KPH so as he wouldn't dust us or throw rocks at us from his wheels, I then let him past and unfortunately as is always the case the others did not slow and the strange thing is they are eating each others dust they are so close together. That was the only thing that we spotted along the 65 Kilometres of gravel road, though we did note a Ford Ute on one of the side roads with a dunny loaded on his tray, we were to see him again this time towing the dunny when he pulled into the rest area. The dunny had fell of the back and I wasn't game to ask what happened to the contents. We came through Morella which has two houses and Telstra mast and nothing else and then we were on the Landsborough Highway heading for Winton. At Midday we pulled into the Crawford Creek rest area and decided to park up have lunch and settle in going into Winton tomorrow. We are not going to worry about Television tonight we will read and then go off to bed at the moment at 2pm it is 27 degrees and muggy so we can say probably think about shorts tomorrow. Kilometres travelled 167 |
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| Welcome to Winton | Dinosaur Rubbish Bin | Crazy Fence |
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Tuesday the 20th Last night after tea we gathered wood and sat around the fire watching the beautiful star lit night along with the milky way, we had one of the truckers come over and we had a good chat before he had his tea and heading off to Cloncurry where he said he would sleep and then the onto Karumba and he expected to arrive at 12noon. They do it hard the mileage they have to cover, we then went off to bed and read. A very cloudy morning this morning as I strutted my way up the highway, it was strange to see clouds so low it reminded me of low fog. Back at camp we packed up and headed off to Winton which is only some 40 Kilometres along the highway, we parked up and had a quick walk along the main street of the shopping centre. Then we unhooked Digger and drove out to the "Long Hole" to check it out as a camp area for a couple of days, we were surprised that the area was so green given the time of the year and there was plenty of birdlife. We went back and collected the Motorhome and went back and set up camp, even though there was a cool breeze the cloud cleared and the temperature rose to 27 degrees. We set our camp for at least a couple of nights had our lunch and then drove back into Winton to have a look about, we needed bread so we purchased that and it was shock to have to pay $2 more a loaf than what we were used to; then onto the Chemist and Butcher and then we explored the town centre. We came across this crazy fence constructed of concrete with all sorts of paraphernalia embedded in the concrete from old motor bikes, washing machines, sewing machines, and vacuum cleaners etc. What a crazy fence most unusual and totally unexpected. The town prides itself on Dinosaurs and even though the Dinosaurs Tracks are a long way out of town they have adopted the theme right down to Dinosaur feet wheely bins and there is a lot of displays in and around the town to this end. |
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Tattersalls Hotel |
Cooking at Long Hole
camp |
It wouldn't be the
same if we didn't sample a few cold ones at the local, we sat outside
the Tattersalls Hotel which in itself is very old with veranda's coming
out over the footpath. The cost of beer has increased since Muttaburra,
we elected to sit out on the footpath and have a couple in the afternoon
sun and watch the traffic go by. We found many old building and one old pub had been burnt down three times since the late 1800's and even today the pub appears to have a lot of character about it which we will check out tomorrow. Then it was back to camp for happy hour and were to sit by the water on the "Long Hole" enjoying the prolific birdlife that abounds, we enjoyed the antics of the green budgerigars as they came in for water; very enjoyable and very relaxing. Time to light the fire and then cooked a couple of Y-Bones on the Barbecue and then enjoyed the sun setting even though it wasn't as spectacular as we have seen in other areas. Then after tea out enjoy the stars again and then inside to watch television and then read for the rest of the night. Kilometres travelled 54 |
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| Monument to Shearer's Camp | Old wooden sheep pens | Old homestead building |
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Wednesday the 21st
Another fine day and I decided to walk out to the main road some 4 kilometres return, home for breakfast and we decided after looking at various tourist brochures we decided to do the half day River Gum Route. Liz packed a picnic lunch and we headed out, first on bitumen road then onto gravel. Our first stop was at the Mistake Creek famous for the scene of the murder of a young boy in the 1800's and in 1895 the area was the site of extensive chinese market gardens apparently they supplied the town and surrounding areas with vegetables, then onto the Bladensburg National Park and the Shearer's Strike Memorial where about 500 shearer's camped during the shearing strike from 1891to 1894 when Winton was under martial law. The whole area is surrounded by the Gidyea trees. We then turned off into towards the Rangers Station and the original homestead buildings, firstly we stopped off at the old shearing sheds and toured through the six stand shed which hasn't been used for sometime, there is plenty of old paraphernalia to remind you of the tough life the shearer's lead in this area. From the old wooden sheep pens to the accommodation and toilets which were the old night pan types. Liz discovered an old rusted tobacco tin dating back to 1894 though not fully intact we kept it as a souvenir. Then on to the old Homestead across a very deep river crossing which during the wet season must be unpassable, the buildings are of old corrugated iron complete with servant quarters, now being part of the national park there were fine displays of the old china plates and many other dinner serving dishes. There was also a display of many of the snakes, including very dangerous brown snake, pickled in bottles and then of course the history of the original homestead and family; all very interesting. |
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| Engine Hole Picnic ground | Skull Hole | Digger on Surprise Creek rock crossing |
We went onto the Engine
Hole picnic ground which is part of the river dried up leaving a short
horseshoe shaped waterhole, we had our lunch here and enjoyed the coolness
of the breeze coming off the water, the temperature was currently 27 degrees
with a little cloud. It was a very pleasant lunch in excellent surroundings. Then onto Skull Hole which is a series of small water holes in granite sides, this was the place that aborigines killed a teamster which then lead to the massacre of the tribe by the Winton Police force, there is prolific birdlife and the area lends itself to a water hole for a whole series of animals. It is here that the rush of water in the wet season shows its strength with the Coolabah and Gum trees having massive tree roots that hang onto both dirt and rock. We were to drive across the rock bottom of Surprise Creek and we stopped to photograph "Digger" at the river crossing; something you are not able to do when the wet season arrives. What a wonderful trip it was to experience the scenery and the history of the area especially the National Park where people were camping in some very nice spots along the various rivers for $4 per person per night, it is an honour system of payment though there were no envelopes or other instrument to place your fee in, so it would seem that nobody pays and nobody collects. We then headed back to camp and gathered our gear for a shower which we decided today would take place in town, we went into the North Gregory Hotel and used there facilities. Once again when you turn the tap on the terrible smell of bore water which you get used to quickly, then we had a couple of cool pots of beer and then headed up to the butchers shop for meat for the next couple of days. We have taken a decision to keep our frozen meat and chicken intact until after Cloncurry until we will buy as required, then bought the paper and headed back to camp for the happy hour. We had a couple of happy campers come join us and we had a good discussion of our different travels and then swapped free camp areas, then lit the fire cooked our tea and the in to watch television and then out to enjoy the stars once again. |
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| Long Hole basin | Bird life at the "Hole" | Our campsite at Winton |
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Thursday the 22nd
After my walk and whilst eating breakfast this morning we decided that we liked the camp area and surrounding district very much, being so tranquil that another two days would let us see more of the area and take in the other sights on offer. We have noted that many people pull into the caravan parks for the night and are gone again next morning without enjoying what Winton and its outlying areas has to offer, even where we are camped the majority only stay a night and then are gone; more pressing matters we suppose. Today we have decided to call it a lay day and as such we will generally sit around enjoying the scenery and the bird life that abounds, Liz decided to bake a loaf of bread in the camp oven. So we lit the fire to make coals whilst the bread mixture was rising, after a good bed of coals was obtained from the Gidyea wood on went the camp oven and then we relaxed reading. It didn't take all that long and out came a beautiful loaf of multi grain bread. The temperature at 3pm is 27 degrees and inside the Motorhome it is 23 degrees and it feels cool inside; so we must be becoming acclimatised to the rising temperature's. Where we are heading to is expecting 30 degrees today, now the sun is starting its journey southward again we can expect longer days. At the moment it is not getting dark until 6:30pm which is great, this will keep us outdoors by the fire tonight after the happy hour and tea until the evening chill arrives then it will be inside to watch the Television and read our books and today's newspaper. |
Friday the
23rd It was warm during the night and that reflected the rising heat during the day at 28 degrees, only a short walk this morning for we decided to go out to the Lark Quarry Dinosaur Trackway. The trip was to be over 300 kilometres return, we set off at 8am and the morning was warm and there was short periods of thin cloud, the going was easy with the first 30 kilometres of bitumen and then the rest was gravel of good quality. The countryside was as flat as with some sections ironstone which made us think what cattle and sheep feed on. We were to come across many sections of the land that was green and then for the next fifty kilometres was bone dry and then back into to green, and though many parts of the state were experiencing rain this was not the case around Winton. As we approached our destination we were to experience Jump ups as they are called, Mesa's just rising out of flat plains and they were very beautiful with their ochre colour's and the different shades of green not to mention that we were to experience Wattle trees starting to flower. The Lark Quarry Conservation Park covers about 374 hectares and was established to protect the Dinosaur trackway's and the surrounding landscape, we arrived to the 10am tour of the facility and the guide was great explaining the scientific discoveries and then relating it to simple understandable english. The original findings of Dinosaur tracks and other creatures from the past is protected with a specially designed building to keep the area excavated in a cool environment thus protecting the many footprints that abound. The area has been excavated in such a way that the various layers of sediment many million of years old which gave us an idea on how the footprints were so well preserved. It is difficult to set out in this Diary all that the guide was able to reveal and explain to us and others on the tour. Needless to say that to see the many small footprints and the large Dinosaur footprints was mind boggling. Standing there looking at something described and estimated to be over a million years old and have explained the vastness of the original inland sea that receded and built up the many differing sediments and protection of the early life footprints was absolutely wonderful. |
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| Lark Quarry building | Various layers of Sediment | Dinosaur Foot Print plus others |
After the tour we
then spent time on the walking tracks which look over the park and wonderful
colour's of the mesa's and plains, we continued on with the Dinosaur drive
and found ourselves at a picnic area which overlooked the Williams Valley.
Whilst having our picnic lunch we were able to take in the views that
seemed to go on for hundreds of kilometres the only setback was the nuisance
fly's that pestered us and cut our lunch and scenic views short. Then we were driving once again on flat plains and again coming across very green areas and then into dry country all in a space of kilometres, we were to pass three cattle and sheep stations who invited tourists in for an outback cattle station adventure; the cost? Unknown. It was a wonderful round trip and even more so not having to travel back over ground already covered, we arrived back in Winton at 2:30 pm and then had our shower at the Hotel and then of course a couple of schooners of XXXX Gold went down really well. |
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| Flowering Wattle | Countryside from Lark Quarry | Liz on instruments at Musical Fence |
Then we went and had
a look at the musical fence which has different types of wire strands
producing different sounds and as an accompaniment Liz was bashing out
a tune on the various old drums and cans and plough discs, there was no
way that we produced music though it was interesting and quite fun Back to camp and then we started to pack for we are on the road tomorrow heading towards Cloncurry, we have really enjoyed our stay at Winton and once again it is easy just to look at the main street and drive on, there is much to do in the area and it surrounds for all to enjoy. Again we have people stay overnight and then head off next morning, we had our usual happy hour and as it is still 28 degrees we will be cooking our evening outdoors again. It has been a full on day so I suppose we will have an early night. |
Friday
the 24th What a beautiful sunrise captured on the daily walk this morning, probably the best to date and no doubt due to the slight cloud cover. Having done most of our packing last night it didn't take long this morning to finish off and then head up to the service station for a top up, the diesel was $1.43.9 per litre; it certainly helps with the Queensland Government subsidising fuel to the tune of 8 cents a litre. We hooked up Digger and then we were on our way, already the temperature was rising quickly so we were driving along with our windows down listening to taped music. The countryside is very flat and green as it could be as Liz stated the outcome of Cyclone Larry, the sheep we were to see were in very good condition and there was plenty of water in the waterhole's not fed from Bore water. The cattle were Brahma cross and they were in good nick as well, the countryside was the same as far as you could see with plenty of green buffalo grass. We were to come across "Jump Ups" as the locals call them for they just appear in flat country, it wasn't long and we were at the Combo Water Hole were we are stopping tonight and with no television there is not a need to start the generator. After we set up we wandered off to collect wood for our fire tonight and when we arrived back we were to see a Monitor Lizard who was not shy at all so we think it is used to being photographed up close. |
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| Sunrise at Long Hole | "Jump Ups" along highway | Monitor Lizard at Combo Waterhole |
We had
our lunch and then decided to do the Combo interpretive walk, first we
were to come across the water "Overshots" built by the chinese
and other laborers around the 1890's to stem the flow of the Diamantina
River and leave holes of water for the drier months of the year. They
are an absolute work of art the way the stone is layered requiring no
cement and being able to withstand the flood waters during the wet season. |
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| Water "Overshots" | Monument to Banjo Paterson | Diamantina River near Combo waterhole |
This
is the area that also was a staging and rest area for the striking shearer's
of 1891, in 1895 the interpretive boards indicate that whilst on a picnic
with the manager of the Dagworth sheep property and his girlfriend Banjo
Paterson wrote the famous Waltzing Matilda song. the signs state that
he did so in memory of the hardships incurred by the shearer's. The walk is excellent through Coolabah trees where we stopped every now and again to get relief from the hot sun, it is currently 29 degrees, spaced out along the track are many signs detailing the history of the area all very informative. We finally ended up at the monument dedicated to Banjo Paterson and it contains the full words to the song other than the colour of the water the river with all its Coolabah trees is very nice scenery. Yesterday I dropped my camera at the Lark Quarry museum and luckily it was onto a wooden floor, though I was to learn later that it had sprung the body of the camera which let light in whilst taking photo's. I was fortunate in being able, with the help of a screwdriver spring it back into place and the photo's were back to normal. Another problem is, if you can call it that is that I take sometimes take fifty photo's or more a day and selecting the right ones for this diary is a hit and miss process; in other words the photo's appearing in this diary may not be the best of those taken. At last a cooling breeze has arrived though the problem is when you go outside you are attacked literally by hundreds of little flies, we are wearing fly nets though they just congregate |